• Your truck tires are commercial grade and won’t be able to be serviced by a normal auto repair shop. Feel free to work with any local repair shop or see recommendations below:
• https://www.sttc.com/
• https://www.bestonetire.com/
• Tire Specs – 225/70R19.5G (14-PR) TIRES

*Note that the Honda Engine & the pump have DIFFERENT OIL, see below:

 – Honda Engine Oil – 10W-30 Synthetic oil for oil changes (Change after first 50 hours, then Every 100 hours afterwards) 

 – Pump Oil – 15W-40 PUMP OIL (comes with truck build) – (Change after first 50 hours, then Every 100 hours afterwards) Please use this link to find the Udor Pump Manual: UdorPumpManual

Isuzu oil changes:

• NRR Gas – Every 7,500 miles
• NRR Diesel – Every 10,000 miles

Note – free oil changes within the first 2 years of purchase if taken to an Isuzu dealer.

Please watch this video to learn how to change the oil yourself – Changing The Oil On The Engine and Pump

Please use this link: GX690 Honda Engine Owners Manual

If needing a local mechanic to assist, find your local Honda Engine Dealer using this link: https://engines.honda.com/dealer-locator

Please use these links:
– Isuzu NQR and NPR – 2025 Warranty and Owner Assistance
– Morgan – Van Body Limited Warranty
– Isuzu Commercial Truck – 2025 Warranty and Owner Assistance
– Specs / Highlights / Maintenance
– Morgan Body Schematic

• This issue can be caused by several factors. Please check the following:
  • Is there a hole or leak in the house connected to the pump head? If so, air may be getting sucked into the pump head, causing sputtering. Cut the hose at the hole or secure the hose if it is disjointed and leaking water.
  • Is the sputtering happening only when the soap is on? If yes, there may be a hole in the soap hose line, or the soap line may not be immersed in the chlorine in the chemical tank, resulting in air suction. Alternatively, the soap valve may be leaking chemical and need replacement.
  • Is the water filter clogged with debris? Is it leaking water? Check the water filter for any clogs or leaks.
• If none of the above issues apply, it is likely that the springs and seals in the pump head need to be checked and replaced if broken.
  • Refer to the UDOR pump head manual and diagram, as well as the tools and seal kits provided in your initial inventory. Springs and seals usually need attention from the second year onward, occurring 1-2 times per year. 

• If the pump head is leaking water from the bottom, it can cause sputtering and loss of pressure. In this case, the seals in the pump head need to be checked and replaced if broken. Refer to the UDOR pump head manual, diagram, and the seal and spring kits provided in your initial inventory.
• Similar to the previous case, seals and springs usually require attention from the second year onward, occurring 1-2 times per year.
• Please see the video below in our Maintenance Video Catalog to learn more on how to repair a pump head.

If the soap valve is leaking chlorine, it could be due to a crack in the soap valve itself or the barb that is screwed into the soap valve. Determine the exact location of the leak and replace the damaged part accordingly.

• First, make sure the water valve from the water tank is turned on; otherwise, there will be no water flow.
• If the machine has not been run in a while or is brand new, it may need to be primed.
• To prime the machine, connect a garden hose to the pump head’s water barb and let the water flow into the pump head for a minute.
  • Then turn on the machine and let it run for another minute while the garden hose supplies water.
  • Finally, remove the garden hose, reattach the water line from the tank to the pump head barb, and start the machine with the water valve on. The pump head should be primed and working properly.
• If the unloader is completely clogged and no water is getting through, it is rare but possible. In such cases, the unloader needs to be unclogged or replaced if damaged.
• Please see the video below in our Maintenance Video Catalog on how to repair a pump head.

• First, check the return line that is connected to both the unloader and back into the pump head. If there is a hole or leak in the return line, it can cause pressure fluctuations due to air suction.
• If the return line is fine, ensure that water is flowing correctly from the water tank into the pump head, and check for any leaks or debris in the water filter.
• Lastly, the unloader may have debris stuck in it or need replacement. Stainless steel unloaders usually hold up well and may not require attention during the first year of work. However, they may eventually need replacement to regulate pressure.

• Check if the machine is correctly connected to the battery with secure connections. Ensure that gas is reaching the engine by inspecting the gas filter on the back of the engine. If the filter is empty, there may be an issue with the gas line, or it may take a minute for the gas to reach the engine.
• If all the connections are secure, gas is flowing, and the machine should start but doesn’t, it could be a problem with the carburetor. Consider replacing the carburetor or using starting fluid. Depending on your comfort and skills, you may attempt to fix it yourself or seek assistance from a mechanic.
• If the machine makes no noise at all and the connections are secure, the fuse may need to be replaced. Locate the fuse in the small square box of connections attached to the engine and replace it with the correct fuse, which can be purchased inexpensively from an auto parts store.

This noise may be caused by a faulty belt. Open the casing to check if the belt is off the wheel tracks or broken. If so, the belt will need to be replaced. Reinstalling the belt correctly onto the wheels may be tedious but can be done.

• Check if the leak is from the water hose line connected to the valve or the valve itself, or the barb connected to the water valve.
• If the leak is from the hose line or barb, shut off the valve and fix or replace the affected part. If the water valve itself is leaking, drain the water in the tank and replace the valve if it is broken.

• If the chemical is leaking due to a crack or hole in the tank, you will need to replace the tank. To transfer the chemical back to the main shop tanks, use the chemical transfer pole and pump the water from the tank on the truck.
• Once emptied, unstrap and remove the chemical tank, replacing it with a spare tank from your initial inventory. Order another chemical tank to have as a backup for quick replacement in the future.

• Stop using the lance immediately. When you return to the shop, disconnect all fittings attached to the lance and discard the lance.
• Transfer all fittings from the old lance to the new lance for a new power wash gun setup.

• If the gun trigger is broken, remove the plug at the bottom and the swivel between the gun and the lance before discarding the gun.
• Save these extra pieces to assemble a new gun/lance setup instead of discarding them.

If the nozzles are clogged, try using a thin pick to unclog them. If they are broken, replace them with nozzles of the same size as the ones previously installed which can be purchased from the Rolling Suds Products website.

• If the bar is slightly bent, you may be able to bend it back into place. If the bar is broken and doesn’t work, replace it with a new one.
• Remember to remove the nozzle tips before discarding the old bar and attaching them to the new one.

• If the Sidewinder is not generating enough pressure to clean and water is coming from the center head instead of the bar, the seals need to be replaced.
• Consult your specific surface cleaner’s manual and diagram to replace the seals.
• Order additional seals for future replacements. After replacing the seals, the Sidewinder should work like new.

• If the hose is broken, discard it unless you have a crimper and want to crimp the hoses yourself.
• Before discarding the hose, remember to remove the quick connect at one end and the plug at the other end for use with the new power wash hose.

• If the quick connects are difficult to use, it is likely due to prolonged use. Use pliers to press on the plug tip to smooth it out, making it easier to connect/disconnect the quick connect.
• If this doesn’t solve the issue, apply WD40 to loosen the quick connect and facilitate easy movement.

• If there is a tiny bit of soap in the water while cleaning, check if the soap valve is completely closed. If it is closed and there is still soap in the water, disconnect the soap line and unscrew the hose barb connected to the soap valve.
• Inspect the soap valve to ensure that the ball inside closes completely. If the soap valve is not working properly, the ball valve may not close entirely, and it needs to be replaced.

Please view the videos below to learn how to check and remove your unloader to diagnose.

• How to Remove an Unloader
• Checking an Unloader – Small Spring Check
• Checking an Unloader – Large Spring Check